As might be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothing has had many a fashion transformation through the years. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented with a floppy fringe and a suit. But while some of his attempts to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the most recent part in the Biebvolution is definitely bang in the fashion money. We have seen ripped jeans. There have been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in to a mood which is sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
In short: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You can dub it a hot mess males, but the single thing you would probably never think of it is hipster – manicured beards needs to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore to the teen awards, has been integral for the rise in demand for denim and also jeans that are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the kind of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You bought that? Do want me to set proper hems on those?”, then it has legs. Elsewhere around the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers which had been roughly shut down in the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; close up, the holes during these knits are layered spanning a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, probably the most in-demand photographers in vogue, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. In a short video to accompany this shoot, you may even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is that this Man?, even though the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff was throughout just about the most talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which had been held in a Chinese restaurant variously described as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. Most of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as in the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is simply set to go on: right after the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another in the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label is backed by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy handle Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
In reality, if everything else fails, the real key to the look is a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for guys. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for women (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured included in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is starting to become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all the justin bieber t shirt that has been the headline news in menswear for the past several years. Not only that, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an endeavor but suggests you are aware of what’s taking place. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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